I'm using a Senville "SENL/09CD/110v" model - https://senville.com/9000-btu-mini-split-air-conditioner-senl-09cd/
19 SEER (HE) High Efficiency Air Conditioner & Heater
And oh yes,
- it is whisper quiet - both internal head unit and outside condenser unit. You don't hear a thing.
- they make a similar unit (more expensive) that works in extreme cold.

Took me a year to build - we drop the tailgate and built a framework that gives us a 6 x 6ft room off the back for a bed or a table - so we 'kind of' a 7 x 20 (7 x 14 trailer + 6 x 6 tailgate room)
Here's a few pics... We bought cabinets from Lowes and stained them. Has a full shower (32" pan) + dry-flush toilet in the shower.

Did a 14s88p - e.g. 260ah @ 48v - DIY battery with Batrium BMS. That's about 10kwh useable.

MPP Solar 3048LV (3000w inverter) - wish I'd done 6000w 

MaxxFan and 1200w of panels on top


Generator (propane or gas) left and 2 x 30lb propane bottles cabinet (right) - vented to outside


32" show + dry flush toile. That Dumawall in the shower and around the kitchen contertop - https://www.amazon.com/Dumawall-Interlocking-Waterproof-Backsplash-Smoked/dp/B075G2YGZK

Tailgate Room - double thick tarp.



Started this thread - https://diysolarforum.com/threads/cargo-trailer-camper-conversion-details.41687/ - to answer questions.

Starting a new thread to share details of converting a 7 x 14 cargo trailer -> camper.


Weight: The dual-axle trailer weighed 4,000lbs with 30gal of water + supplies... perfectly reasonable for 7,000lb capacity trailer and 5,000lb towing capability on my car. I did need Blue-Ox stabilizer / weight distribution due to sway >50-55mph - https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Blue-Ox/BLU77FR.html The Blue-Ox smoothed everything out - can do 65mph smoothly (interstate speed in my state) and still feel completely in control. 50-55mph was just too slow for overall traffic - 60-65mph let's you blend in.

Tongue jack: After a few times of killing myself with a manual tongue jack, I went with Husky Electric - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YSGOD1O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title - because it maxes out at 30a@12v. Suggest you plan for power out at the tongue. I did a 120v -> 12v transformer tapped off the mini-split (and mounted in the box on top of the mini-split) which is why the 30a (lower amps) was important.



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This was the post I was looking for. Ive cross posted to another but here is the link. Looking for a split phase inverter may have to go with a Growatt x2 @ 3k watts for my planned HP to go off grid totally solar.
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/9000-btu-mini-split-heat-pump-hi-seer-ratings-innovair-vs-lg-vs-mitsu-etc-worth-it.32702/page-2#post-528223

Note; all specifications are carefully taken from the perspective manu's service manuals, keeping in mind CoP performance is highly detailed with dry and wet temps.

The specs on the Carrier Infinity series are:
9k BTU --> 38MPRA (outdoor) & 40MPHAQ09 indoor $2599 - SEER 42 / EER 15 / HSPF 15 c/w variable CoP.
12K BTU = $2699
208/230 v fan & motor specs on pg 14 list the max load demand at:
(input) 137 watts for both 9K & 12K BTU units.
I also see 115 watts (W) for both on the outdoor fan motor
as well as 137 (W). on the indoor high wall unit, consumption on pg 11 indicates 60 (W) for both 9 & 12 BTU units.
Interesting is "Range of Amps" at 0.023 for both units

Gree Saphire sereies
SAP09HP230V1A ($2159) --> SEER 38 / EER 16.5 / HSPF 15
Cooling Power input input 540 (50~1400 watts)
Heating Power input 590(200~1500)
rated input is 1500 wattts Rated current is 6.2 A

Mitsubishi MUZ series MUZ-FH09NA -->SEER 30.5 / EER 16.1 / HSPF (NA:13.5 / NAH:12.5) Cooling Power consumption rated (min~max) 560(100~1000) Watts / Heating Power consumption rated (min~max) 710(110~1470) Watts as noted from pg 4 section 3.

All above units are 1ph @ 220v , I would love to put one of these above units on a dedicated off grid system, trying to spec out a cheap split phase system.

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A bit old post but Im testing a 9k Mr Cool in a 35 Grayhound in 100+ Texas heat. I find here that NOTHING matters more than insulation. In fact, insulation is by far a bigger factor than any SEER/Solar configuration. This is such a big deal that Ive started looking looking at these so called vacuum panels which are just hollow core material with thin skins.

Not sure if this forum is be the right place for this type of discussion but its so integral to mobile energy design it seems it may be ok.
FYI a one inch thick "vaccum panel" is R50! I just wonder if they can be DIY-ed since we have such odd shapes to deal with.